2011年9月23日星期五

High-End Retailers Offering More Discounts, merely Discreetly - NYTimes.com

Of lesson, many luxury retailers have long attempted discreet discounts to their top customers. Sales associates at luxe ministry stores were typically empowered to give discounts of about 10 percent to customers costing upward of a certain value of money, usually $20,000 or $25,000.

“It’s heroin,” said Paco Underhill, the writer of “Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping” and the founder of Envirosell, the retail research and consulting firm. “The more you do it and the more ways you do it, the harder it is to stop.”

“If you were a regular luxury shopper, you felt like a sucker,” said Karla Martin, a co-leader of the North American retailing practice at Booz & Company, a treatment consulting firm. “If you fair spent $800 on a Marni skirt and you sprint into celebrity who spent $400, you don’t feel remedied well as a customer. That was a calamity for retailers.”

“It gives them logical deniability,” Ms. Martin said. “I think that is a many better approach in luxury than what happened over Christmas.”

The conventional knowledge is that the more consumers who understand about a sale, the better for affair. But that rule does not necessarily clutch in luxury retailing.

Another avail of secret sales is that they necessitate little or not advertising, so stores can privately tear deals with customers and publicly maintain that they do not discount their brands.

Rather than post big sale signs, which tin ruin a store’s glory, high-end necklaces are attempting apt discharge $3,000 handbags and $800 shoes by periodically telling customers namely certain items are on sale, even now the cost tags say otherwise. The stores too agree in the electronic equivalent of murmuring in a customer’s ear: bringing select clients e-mail alerts almost personal online sales.

At Tiffany & Company, executives contend that sale signs would impact with the jeweler’s reputation for timeless quality, signified by its signature blue boxes. “We certainly don’t engage in price promotion,” Mark L. Aaron, the company’s vice chancellor for investor narratives, said in an interview.

Customers who subscribe to e-mail messages from Neiman Marcus, for example, are regularly invited to “midday dash” sales. The two-hour, online-only sales agree 50 percent off luxury goods that can be bought only by clicking on a interlock in the e-mail information. Customers learn about the sale mere hours before it begins. This week’s “dash” featured a $697 Burberry handbag, apparent down from $1,395. A Carmen Marc Valvo chiffon robe was $575, down from $1,150. And Cole Haan flats were $82, down from $165.

Yet while covert sales are a subtler course to move goods, many industry professionals say they think today’s civilization of nonstop sales, secret and not, is further impairing the luxury business.

That was last autumn, and in the months since, he has been inundated with similar discount offers. If a salesman does not make one, he has studied to ask.

Neiman Marcus declined to consult the “midday dash” extensively for competitive reasons and because it is still testing the improvement. But the retailer said that even now it is amused with the results.

Scott Stuart was at the Bloomingdale’s store in Manhattan when a salesman sidled up to him, said a personal sale was under way and offered him a discount on the slacks he was observing.

Such discreet sales maintain a brand’s veneer of exclusivity and help establish a sense of urgency by limiting the time customers have to score a deal. Additionally, secret sales enable stores to discount their merchandise deeply without inflaming regular customers who may have bought at full price — the opposite of what happened last Christmas, when panicked department stores began selling in-season couture at fire-sale prices. The eye-popping discounts led many consumers to answer if all that chic merchandise was value the tall prices at first.

“We say, ‘Here’s the production and here’s the price, and the price is justified,’ ” Mr. Aaron said.

Mr. Stuart is among the many buyers in this economy to acquire the benefits of secret sales — whispered discounts and cautious price negotiations among customers and sales staff in the arteries of upscale chains. A time-worn tactics typically reserved for a store’s best customers,Tiffany Watches, The Gucci Pantheon Watches Built With Jewelry Craft, it has become more democratized as the recession tugs on and retailers skirmish to turn browsers into buyers.

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“When you’re selling anything in luxury,” said David A. Schick, a administrate adviser and retailing analyst with Stifel Nicolaus, “you’re selling exclusivity.”

“In another mart, I would have detected it quite inappropriate” to ask for a deduct, said Mr. Stuart, a bankruptcy attorney who goes in New York and Chicago. “In this market, I’m discovery it incredibly suitable.”

Even so, Tiffany has lowered prices on diamond appointment rings about 10 percent, hoping to cultivate a lifelong relationship between the prospective groom and the Tiffany mark.

Tiffany conducted customer research that shows its shoppers would be reluctant to see the chain, founded in 1837, offering 20-percent-off charm bracelets and jewelry earrings.

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Rather than put up percent-off signs, Neiman Marcus uses e-mail and its Web site to advertise deep, yet brief, discounts.

More and extra, the operation is on the Internet. “Not so long antecedent, many of the elegance brands saw it for a mass traffic,” said Gregory Furman, builder and chairman of the Luxury Marketing Council, an manufacture group. Now it is not uncommon for retailers to send e-mail messages favor the an Bloomingdale’s sent in April to its subscribers: “Today merely! Take $500 off your regular-priced online purchase of $1,500 alternatively more in Mens.”

In this economy, whatever, the discounts are “more in-your-face,” said Stacey Widlitz, a retailing analyst with Pali Research. Moreover, they are steeper than in the quondam and available to customers spending distant less than $25,000.

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